Monday, July 16, 2012

Foie gras, beaches, and giant babies

I can't say it's been a bad life in Basque Country so far. I'm writing from here...


...la Plage Grande in Biarritz, France. After a night of pintxos and partying in San Sebastian yesterday (where it became eminently clear to us that we are by far the oldest travelers in a 100-mile radius...or at least the oldest travelers who enjoy having a few chupitos - shots - with the locals), we boarded a bus to Biarritz this afternoon to lie on the beach, drink rose, and read. We located two very important things:
1) A secluded swimming hole.


2) The world's largest baby. Seriously. Look at that thing. It's enormous.


Biarritz is gorgeous. The city doesn't quite have the charm of San Sebastian, with its tiny, winding, old city streets, but it's clearly a place where the French, and tourists alike, come to see and be seen. The beach is packed with topless sunbathers (guy friends, take note) and there are rock outcroppings scattered around the ocean's edge that are perfect for climbing. Or just looking at if you're tired. All in all, not a bad place to spend an afternoon. Tonight we're heading back to San Sebastian for more eating and drinking. We've almost become regulars at some of our favorite spots, and don't want to let our beloved bartenders down by not showing up for our typical 10PM pintxo.

Speaking of pintxos, last night we stumbled across (or "were guided to" by Rick Steve and the kindly elderly lady at our first hotel) the best food we've had in San Seb to date. For 11 Euro, we had two glasses of wine each, a giant portion of freshly-seared foie gras accompanied by a pureed apple compote, tender veal cheeks braised in Rioja wine that fell apart under the slightest touch of our forks, a giant round of goat cheese stuffed with roasted vegetables and covered in basil oil, and, courtesy of our friendly bartender, a chocolate mousse drizzled with an orange reduction. Yes. Please. Abby and I have made a pact to go back to this magical place, La Cuchara de San Telmo, every single night. For the rest of our lives. Or at least until we leave San Sebastian on Wednesday. We're also addicted to Txepetxa, an anchovy bar where more than half of the menu consists of fresh anchovies with a variety of toppings. We sampled the antxoa with jardiniera, one with a delicate spider crab crema, and a third with a light spread of foie topped with apple compote (they're obsessed with this foie-apple combo...and so are we). De-li-cious. In case you're having trouble picturing anchovies being de-li-cious, this may change your mind:


On the docket tomorrow: a surfing lesson on Zurriola Beach, perhaps a wine tasting, and just generally hanging out. Which we've gotten pretty good at. All this, of course, after another night of pintxos and tinto. Well, after we finish the fresh baguette and hunk of Gouda I have in my purse...

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad from some awesome, fabulous, amazing, dangerous international location

Location:Place Bellevue,Biarritz,France

1 comment:

  1. Holy HELL that meal sounds delicious. Rick Steves, you are the man.

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